Day 19 - Land's End and the REAL cost of COVID-19
- Paul Juckett
- Jun 24, 2020
- 3 min read
Today I was up early to drive to Land's End. This is the area of the Cornish Coast that I know the best, having spent some family holidays at nearby Mousehole as a youngster, during which coastal walks were very much the order of the day.
The first thing you should know about Land's End is this, the point that is called Land's End (where that signpost is) isn't actually the furthest point West on the British Mainland. To actually be at 'Land's End' you have to walk approximately 100 yards towards Sennen Cove, to the wonderfully named Dr Syntax Head. It is on this point that you will find "The First and Last House" a small building now used as a cafe and tat shop, where tourists may buy a momento of their visit (A similar "First and Last" shop was at the Lizard point, again a cafe and tat shop!)

I visited both points, to ensre I had been at Land's End (more about the 'official' Land's End later) and then headed off along the South coast towards Porthcurno (five miles distant).
The path has some ups and downs, but none are too lengthy (albeit some are steep) and the granite bolders that lie across the path can sometimes make stepping over difficult. However, apart from that the biggest risks are how close the path runs to some pretty steep drops and how overgrown it is in places (For the most part the path is along the tops of Cliffs, giving plenty of room).
After about two and a half miles you come to Mill Bay, where a small (mainly rocky) beach sits under the shadow of granite cliffs each side of it. One of the cliffs has an arch through it.

Up onto the RSPB conservation area of Porthgwarra the path climbs and continues along the cliffs past the coastguard look-out for about two miles until you come to the tiny cove in which Porthgwarra sits. All of the properties here appear to be holiday lets as part of the St. Aubyn estate and sit in a quite remarkable setting, right next to the cove.
From here, it is one and a quarter miles further along a winding and up and down path until you arrive at the Minack theatre. Now quite well developed, it is not possible to see the auditorium and stage from the path anymore (I am sure it was visible when I was a child?), but one of the 'wings' of the stage can be seen as you begin to descend the steep steps into Porthcurno Beach.

Once you have descended the steps you'll come out at the back of the beach, with a path leading up the hill towards the town and various attractions (including the signal station and wartime tunnels).
The Eastern Cable company was based here and laid cables across the Atlantic to America as well as a link to India in 1870!
On the way back towards Land's End, the scenery kept my attention, The cliffs here are predominantly Granite (whereas the North Coast areas I have already walked appear to be slate. Granite has the capability of withstanding the crashing of the sea for longer, lending itself to creating some dramatic landscapes.

Back at Land's End, I revisited the signpost and pondered how damaging COVID-19 has been. It seems that nothing is safe from it's ability to diminish physical stature.

Or, perhaps the man / woman who looks after the sign has over-reacted.



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