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Day 49 - The penultimate day!! Cape Cornwall to Land's End

  • Paul Juckett
  • Jul 30, 2020
  • 4 min read

A bright but breezy day greeted me on arrival at Cape Cornwall, so the hoody went on and I set my sights for Land's End.


Today's path started on a steep unmetalled track, that must have been part of a car test track at sometime in the past. It was full of large stones that seemed to have been thrown into badly lain wet cement, a car would have to have a seriously beefed up suspension to survive a trip up this. As for my feet, well they struggled, but that might be something to do with the previous 560 or so miles!

Once you reach the top of the track, you can see all the way to Land's End (if it's a nice and clear day like today was) but only briefly as you start to descend into Cot Valley.

The Cot valley is now a bit of a haven for wildlife, with it's steep sides it is well sheltered and an abundance of flora and fauna grows. In Autumn rare migratory birds can be seen here and, at the mouth of the valley Porth Nanven (Cot Cove), offers the chance to see Grey seals, Basking Sharks or Dolphins. However, none of these were visible to me today, so I made do by exploring some of the old mine buildings that sit towards the head of the valley. There is an information board near one, that explains how ore was broken up and washed by using the water from the stream that runs through the valley.

The trek through the valley has a few path options, but all lead (eventually) along the Southern side of the valley and around the base of the cliff that plunges down to Cot Cove.

Walking along the base of this cliff heading away from the valley, four or five old entrances to mines are visible and (for the brave/stupid) possible to explore. As tempted as I was, the fact that I was lacking a torch / hard hat / waterproofs made me think better of it and I hurried by!

The path on towards Whitesand Bay is at times strenuous and at others easy, meaning this section of path is rated as 'moderate' in most guides.

As you ascend and descend cliffs and pick your way past boulders on headlands, you'll find signs asking you not to loiter, so as to avoid disturbing the nesting Cornish Choughs. Ultimately, it is hard to resist marveling at the scenery around here, It is easy to see why artists love the coastline between St. Ives and Land's End.

Around four miles after Cape Cornwall, you arrive at Whitesand Bay. Two beaches separated by a small section of rocky outcrop, the sands stretch for a mile all the way to Sennen Cove. The Beaches are called Gwynver and Sennen and are today filling up with sun worshippers, shouting and screaming kids, dogs and surfers, making it harder for me to fully appreciate the beauty of them! The picture below is of Gwynver at 10:30 hrs, when I returned at 12:00 hrs it was much busier!


Sennen is a tiny village, that attracts holiday makers in vast numbers, when I first arrived at around 10:45 hrs there was already congestion at the car parks (all full) and temperatures were soaring whilst patience seemed to be in short supply!

There is a lifeboat station and a small harbour, along with a couple of cafe's and a pub, but I quickly passed through and headed up the coast path to the headland, the view from there back to Cape Cornwall is amazing, giving a fantastic view of Whitesand Bay!

A mere mile separates Sennen from Land's End and the path has been improved almost to the point that vehicles could make the journey! The foot traffic between the two is large, so I rush to Dr. Syntax Head and take my photos, keen to avoid the crowds.


I noticed from afar that the direction (finger post) sign had been given it's fingers back (proving that the COVID restrictions are well and truly relaxed!), but it was surrounded by people clutching cameras or smartphones to take a picture, so I didn't bother (I wonder if they know that the Land's End signpost isn't even at Land's End!).


I got on my way and noticed the wreck of the RMS Mulheim that ran aground between Sennen and Land's End at Gamper Bay in March 2003, with the wreckage now sitting in a rocky inlet called Castle Zawn.

You can read the full story here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MV_RMS_Mulheim


I fought my way through the crowds of Sennen and skirted the busy beaches on my way back to Cape Cornwall. At the back of Gwynver Beach I came across lots of Ice Plant growing and a few flowering.

Today has seen me complete the North Coast. I have walked Welcombe Mouth to Land's End and back, and tomorrow (when I walk Penzance Railway Station to Lamorna Cove and back), I'll have completed the whole of the Cornish Coastline twice!

 
 
 

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